Even Häagen-Dazs, which débuted in Manhattan, in 1976, stocked a short-lived carob-flavored ice cream. What was so wrong with cacao? “Ten Talents” called it a “harmful stimulant”; others scowled at the high fat content of chocolate confections and the bitterness of unsweetened cocoa powder. The counterculture of the nineteen-seventies, ready to give any diet that Harvard nutritionists scoffed at a go, absorbed these prejudices with little question. Chocolate was bad? Chocolate was bad!
Until, suddenly, it wasn’t. By the nineteen-eighties, it had become more than acceptable to admit that you’d fallen victim to a new disease: chocoholism.